As we age, our skin's functioning and structure change. That’s why we must also pay attention to our skincare regimes to ensure that our products align with our skin's needs so we can preserve our skin health and youthful appearance as long as possible.
Structural and Functional changes in ageing skin
Epidermis
The outermost layer of the skin mostly contains keratinocytes (dead skin cells). In youthful skin, these keratinocytes are pushed up to the outermost surface of the skin every 28 days (a process called desquamation), but this process decreases significantly in aged skin, which causes the skin to have a dull appearance.
Products that help to speed up desquamation:
1. Lamelle Correctives AHA 5% Solution
2. NeoStrata Skin Active Exfoliating Wash
3. SkinCeuticals Retexturing Activator
4. NeoStrata Glycolic Microdermabrasion Polish
5. NeoStrata PHA Renewal Pads (For sensitive skin)
6. NassifMD Detox Pads Original
7. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Ultra Concentrated Serum
9. CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum
10. SkinCeuticals Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight
Dermis
The dermis contains connective tissue and collagen fibres, which contribute significantly to skin thickness and elasticity. Nerve fibres, sensory receptors, and hyaluronic acid are also present in the dermis. As we age, the amount of collagen fibres decreases due to reduced fibroblast activity. This leads to changes in the physical structure of the skin, as it no longer receives the same support from the connective tissue structure produced by fibroblasts.
Products that help to combat structural changes in the dermis:
1. Heliocare 360 Age Active Fluid SPF50+
2. La Roche-Posay Redermic Retinol B3 Serum
5. NeoStrata Skin Active Tri-Therapy Lifting Serum
6. NeoStrata Comprehensive Retinol Eye Serum
7. NassifMD Hydro-Screen Hydrating Serum
8. SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum
9. SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Serum
10. NeoStrata Potent Retinol Complex
Hypodermis
As we age, the subcutaneous fat in our faces, hands, and feet decreases, while body fat can increase until we are about 70 years old. Unfortunately, once this process has begun, no over-the-counter products can improve it.
However, there are a few products available to help improve the appearance of the skin, specifically the body skin (please see the Epidermis sections above on products to improve the appearance of the facial skin):
2. Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Body Shield
4. NeoStrata Glycolic Renewal Smoothing Lotion
5. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Micro-Peeling Gel
Swap this for that
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Pre-mature ageing (prevention): |
Mature/aged skin: |
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Lamelle Vita C30 Cream (if it’s your first time using Vitamin C, start with the Recharge CE) |
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Heliocare Advanced Gel SPF50 (try the Heliocare Ultra 90 Cream for dry skin) |
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SkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0 (always start with 0.3and work up from there) |
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CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF50 (also available in PM) |
Why do wrinkles occur
What causes wrinkles to form ( both intrinsic and extrinsic):
1. Age – Skin elasticity, fat, and collagen decrease with age. A combination of all of these factors contributes to the formation of wrinkles and saggy skin.
Here’s what can help:
- NassifMD Quick fix Wrinkle Smoother
- NeoStrata Tri-Therapy Lifting Serum
- SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defence Serum
2. UV (Ultra-Violet) Radiation – It’s no secret that sun damage is the main factor (but not the only factor) that contributes to accelerated skin ageing. UV rays cause the elastin and collagen fibres to break down at a faster rate, which causes the skin to look older faster.
Here’s what can help:
- Any sunscreen of your choice! Click HERE to see a list of SPFs available. Remember to always check that your SPF covers a broad spectrum, meaning both UVA (Ageing) and UVB (Burning). Extra points if it also covers HEVL (High Energy Visible Light which comes from lights, phones, and computers).
3. Smoking – Smoking constricts the blood flow in the skin, which causes the skin cells to suffer as oxygen and nutrients are restricted.
4. Pollution – Prolonged and frequent exposure to pollution can cause free radicals to form in the skin, which causes a decline in the health of skin cells. A great way to combat these free radicals is by using an antioxidant, like Vitamin C, daily.
Here’s what can help:
- La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C10 Serum
- NeoStrata Enlighten 15% Vitamin C + PHA Serum
- NeoStrata Illuminating Serum
- NassifMD Nightly Restorative Serum
5. Repeated facial expressions – Facial movements over time can cause stagnant wrinkles to form. As the flexibility of our skin changes because of a decrease in collagen production, the groves that occur with dynamic facial expressions can no longer go back to normal.
Here’s what can help:
- Botox:
Botulinum toxin, commonly known as Botox (brand name), is a neurotoxic protein produced by a specific bacterium. It is widely used in the aesthetic industry to prevent the formation of static wrinkles by temporarily limiting the movement of the facial muscle into which it is injected. 
- Fillers:
Dermal fillers come in temporary (3-5 months) or semi-permanent (two years) forms. Fillers are usually used to correct wrinkles and plump-up areas where loss of muscle tone, and loss of fat padding has caused an increase in depth of the facial structure.
*Both treatments were done by our Aesthetic doctor, Dr Suzanne Ferreira!
The role of retinol in ageing skin
Retinol is very popular nowadays, and it is essential to incorporate it into your anti-ageing skincare routine. Retinol is a form of Vitamin A that can target and help improve multiple skin concerns. Some retinol treatments are taken as oral medication prescribed by doctors, like Isotretinoin (also known as Accutane or Roaccutane).
Retinol helps to slow down the breakdown of collagen, which helps to preserve the elasticity of the skin. It also activates the fibroblasts to produce more collagen since it interacts with specific receptors in the skin, which makes it the most effective anti-ageing solution!
Here are some of our favourite go-to Retinols:
- NeoStrata Potent Retinol Complex
- La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum
- CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum
*Important reminder: If you are already taking Vitamin A orally, consult your doctor before applying it topically. NEVER use Retinol when pregnant or breastfeeding.
*Never mix Retinol with:
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
- Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
- Vitamin C
- Other Vitamin A products
- Any other exfoliating products
The best treatment for ageing skin is to prevent it as long as possible. All skin will inevitably show signs of ageing at some point, but with the correct skincare products, this process can be significantly slowed down. It is best to incorporate healthy lifestyle factors to promote healthy skin rather than just rely on skincare and treatments to keep the skin looking healthy and youthful.