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Let’s talk about the skin’s barrier

The skin’s barrier is the first line of defence against invading pathogens. The skin's main functions include maintaining the skin's fluid balance, regulating the body’s temperature, sensing pressure and pain, and protecting the body from external stressors.

 

What makes up the barrier of the skin:

Stratum Corneum – Layer of dead skin cells that acts as a physical barrier against pathogens.

Epidermal lipids – Moisture binding, which helps to keep the skin hydrated.

Hydro-lipid film – Emulsion of water and fats that protects the skin against toxins.

Acid mantle – Gives the skin its acidic pH, which helps to protect the skin against harmful micro-organisms.

 

 

Why is it important to maintain the skin’s barrier, and how does it function

The skin’s barrier helps to keep pathogens out and moisture in; this prevents the skin from looking dull and ageing prematurely. It protects the skin against infections, pollution, inflammation, dehydration, toxins and, most importantly, ultraviolet rays from the sun!

The skin consists of the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis. The stratum corneum (part of the epidermis) is made up of dead skin cells covered by a hydrolipid layer, which also includes the acid mantle. This system helps to prevent or at least limit the penetration of harmful pathogens and water loss. The skin's acid mantle has an acidic pH; this encourages the growth of skin-friendly micro-organisms or skin flora. 

 

The role of Filaggrin in the skin’s barrier

Filaggrin is the structural protein responsible for maintaining the skin’s barrier. Thus, it plays a very important role in conditions such as atopic dermatitis (eczema). Filaggrin is synthesised in a large precursor protein called profilaggrin, which can be found in the stratum granulosum of the epidermis. If any mutations occur in the epidermis or profilaggrin, it could result in impaired barrier functioning. The term ‘dry skin gene’ refers to a deficit in filaggrin, this is, unfortunately, a genetic predisposition. Filaggrin is also a key component when it comes to Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), which helps to maintain the skin’s barrier. By using the correct moisturiser and supporting the NMF of the skin, filaggrin is supported, which means that the barrier can function optimally.

 

Symptoms of a damaged skin barrier:       

  • Extreme dry skin.
  •  Dehydration line.
  • Dull looking skin.
  • Uneven skin tone due to epidermal thinning.

 

What damages the skin’s barrier:

  • Extreme hot or extremely cold weather.
  • Allergens.
  •  Sunburn.
  •  Smoking.
  • Poor skincare.
  • Over-exfoliating the skin.
  • Prolonged stress.
  • Ageing.
  • Lack of sleep.
  • Steroid medication.
  • Injury to the skin.

     

How to restore the skin’s barrier

The skin itself can become dry and sensitive when the barrier is compromised; this is where ingredients like Ceramides, Hyaluronic acid, and Squalane come in. Avoid using too many exfoliating products/ingredients on the skin at once, as this could result in the barrier becoming stripped. These include AHA’s, BHA’s, PHA’s, Vitamin C, and Retinol.

Products contribute quite a lot when it comes to healing the skin’s barrier but can also contribute to damaging it. Using harsh soaps can disrupt the barrier because the pH is usually alkaline. The skin’s pH should ALWAYS remain slightly acidic. Many individuals still use these harsh soaps, and yes, you might not see any major differences immediately, but the damage we did to your skin in previous years comes out later in life.

 

Physiological factors that influence the skin’s barrier:

Age – As we age, our skin pH becomes higher.

Skin tone – Individuals with a darker skin tone tend to have a more acidic pH.

Genetic predisposition – Genetic variations can impact different components responsible for maintaining the skin’s pH.

Sebum – Sebum composition can vary, resulting in a change in skin pH.

Moisture levels – Having both too little and too much moisture in the skin can result in pH changes.

 

 

Some of our favourite barrier-restoring products:

A cleanser for irritated skin:  SkinCeuticals soothing cleanser

A serum for redness: NeoStrata redness-neutralizing serum

A cream for reactive and sensitive skin: La Roche-Posay cicaplast balm b5

A cleanser for compromised skin: Lamelle serra cleansing gel

A cream for irritated and compromised skin: Lamelle serra restore cream

A cream for hypersensitive skin: Lamelle serra NSB cream

A cream for dry, compromised skin:  SkinCeuticals triple lipid restore

SPF for sensitive skin; Colorescience total protection no show mineral sunscreen

A cleanser for sensitive and reactive skin (safe for the whole family): La Roche-Posay lipikar syndet AP+

A cleanser for very dry and sensitive skin: La Roche-Posay toleriane sermo nettoyant cleanser

Mist for reactive, sensitive, and eczema-prone skin: La Roche-Posay thermal spring water

A cleanser for sensitive, oily skin (all skin types can also use this cleanser): NeoStrata PHA facial cleanser

A moisturizer for compromised, dry, and sensitive skin: NeoStrata PHA daily moisturizer

A body lotion for dry and sensitive skin: NeoStrata bionic lotion  

 

The barrier of the skin is overlooked a lot when it comes to the origin of certain skin problems ,that's why it's always a good idea to incorporate a berrier-supporting product into your everyday skincare regime.

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